Samchuk 100 years old market, the living museum...
สามชุก ตลาดร้อยปี - พิพิธภัณฑ์มีชีวิต
In case you guys are wondering why I'm writing in English (very "go inter" this time, huh?), this is for Lisa, my dear friend who went on this trip with us. The three of us, Lisa, P'Knew and myself, went to Samchuk on November 18, 2007. And me as the local host drove there to show them my hometown and the hospitality of Samchuk residents. (I think my grandma and all my uncles did very well for the latter part.)
The original plan was to have lunch at the Buffalo Village in Amphur Sriprachan, Suphanburi. Then, visited Samchuk, 100 years old market. Then, lots and lots of river prawn for dinner. hehehe..
We took off around 10.00 am and drove along Bangbuatong-Suphanburi road. When we reached Suphanburi, still continued on this road and passed Amphur Muang. (Amphur = District) If you see Tesco Lotus on your left, that means you have reached Amphur Muang Suphanburi ka.
Then, we kept on going... to Samchuk, that is.
If you see the first traffic light on this road, that means you have reached Amphur Sriprachan. For those of you who want to buy antique furnitures, look toward your left and right once you pass this junction. You will see houses that sell these stuffs.
A little while after passing Sriprachan junction, you will see a sign saying turn right to Sawaengha (แสวงหา). Sawaengha is a district nearby, not part of Suphanburi province. But i'm sure quite sure which province. If you turn right here and drive along that small road for about 200 meters, to your left, you will find Buffalo Village where you can see buffalo show, museum, and a good restaurant. Yes, our original plan was to have lunch here. But we changed our mind to go straight to Samchuk and to lunch there. Nice noodles from Jek Aow (เจ๊กอ้าว) was our target for lunch.
So, we kept on driving along the main road until we saw the sign Samchuk turn left. At this junction, on the right, you will find a big construction site of Tesco Lotus. My 78 years old grandma joined the protest "Samchuk, No Lotus!!!" "สามชุก ตลาดร้อยปี ไม่เอาโลตัส". Don't be surprised to see this sign around the market even on the red T-shirt of Samchuk residents. The reason being was that the big super store like Lotus will ruin the way of life for all of us at Samchuk market.
At Samchuk market, we first stopped at my grandma's, fabric stores called Chok Nimit (โชคนิมิต). Nimit is my grandpa's Thai name. Yes, fabric stores not just one. Three shops of my uncles and one shop of my grandparents also share the same name. All four are located in Samchuk market. And a few more located around Suphanburi province. Grandma highly recommended Salid fish (ปลาสลิด ไม่รู้มันเขียนภาษาอังกฤษว่าไง เอาไปแบบนี้ก่อนละกันนะ). It's so yummy. Grandma cooked like a kilo of Salid fish for me everytime of my last few trips home. Hmmm Krispy on the outside, juicy and tasty on the inside... And I finished all of them easily by myself. hahaha... P'Knew also bought 3 kilos and she now asked me to buy more for her if I go see my grandma again.
Then, we headed to Jek Aow noodle stall for lunch. My aunt said the name Jek Aow is the first generation. Now, his daughters run this noodle stall. As long as I could remember, I've never seen the real Jek Aow, only his daughters for years after years. And no matter how long time passes by, the taste remains the same. They still use that old drawer for egg noodles. If you have a chance to visit Jek Aow noodle stall, I would highly recommend Egg Noodles and Wonton Tom Yum. And you will understand what I meant by egg noodles drawer.
Once finished lunch, we were ready to explore the market. Next stop, the museum, Baan Khun Chamnong (บ้านขุนจำนงค์).
One hundred years ago, Khun Chamnong was the tax officer who collected tax from those who traveled along Ta Jeen river (แม่น้ำท่าจีน) and traded rice at samchuk market, then, submitted them to the government. His generousity and hospitality were well awared by all Samchuk market residents. My mom said that when she and her little brothers were in primary school, they always came to his house after school to study in the evening. He spent his personal time to nourish and educate the youngs for a better future of Samchuk.
Back then, rice trading business was sprung. Merchants travelled along Ta Jeen river by boats with loads and loads of rice. Businesses in Samchuk were blooming. Then, roads were constructed to connect between Amphur to Amphur, Province to Province. The use of Ta Jeen river to connect and trade agricultural products has become less popular. Now, as you all know, even boat noodles are not for sale in a river anymore. Only boat places in a shop. When thinking to this point, it gave me a sad feeling that by developing our country, we have lost so much in our way of life.
A few years ago Samchuk market committee was established to reserve and revive our hometown. When the economic crisis struck Thailand in 1998, Samchuk, though a small district, was also impacted widely. My grandparents' business was one of them. And yes, a spoiled kid like me also had a good glimpse of that painful moment when I was studying in the US. A few years after slow economy, the Samchuk market committee started a campaign to promote Samchuk market. It took us 3 - 4 years to become well known to the press and, finally, to the whole country as "the destination" for a one-day trip from Bangkok. We have tried so hard with our tear and sweat to bring this market to live just like in the old days once again. And now, we are facing a new and critical obstacle, Tesco Lotus.
OK... I'd better stop now. Otherwise, I would have join one of the political parties and run for the December 23rd election. It's the Political Science blood in me that Chulalongkorn University has done a good work in filling it in. hae hae...
See ya next blog!
